South West to North East with Ludwig

 The forecast is variable but seems dry and although sunny at the campsite the hill tops look enshrouded in cloud. It looks set to stay so we decide to head of nonetheless. Initially along the river to Hayfield village from where we follow Snake Path up over the moorland towards Kinder Reservoir. The ground is dry and there is evidence of bush fires, probably intentional. We are walking through heather and Myrtle bushes along a well marked track. We skirt the reservoir and follow a stream up William Clough to the top of the ridge. There are a few groups of fellow walkers in this popular route and we jostle for position. Unfortunately the top is still in the cloud and the wind is strong. We are unable to appreciate the stunning views that we’re sure are all around us. The path is now the Pennine Way and is well used but hard under foot and there is a good deal of Boulder hopping. We pass Kinder Falls but we are unaware barely able to see the cliffs below us. The cloud begins to clea...

 Cold grey day in Brampton as we say farewell to H and A. The greater spotted woodpeckers still feeding at the bird table by their kitchen window. We drive south a couple of hours on the M6 passing the Western Lakes on our right and then reach RHS Bridgewater. It’s now 20 degrees C and sunny. Lovely lunch on the terrace overlooking the pond and then we stroll around the magnificent gardens. The walled areas are a particular highlight. Surprisingly well developed seeing as they have only recently been planted. We love the salvias (Balkan Clary) and aliums. The geraniums in all those guises are also magnificent. Worsley Hall that once stood above the lake has long gone, not even a ruin remains. This once grand building was finally demolished by a scrap merchant in 1943. Then onwards towards the Peaks and Hayfield campsite which is in a beautiful location by a river. A relaxing few hours in the sun with some white wine and twiglets before the sun slowly sinks behind the trees and our ...

 We wake to the sound of rain and have to wear our waterproofs for the first time. Again we are pleased not to be packing up a wet tent. It only takes 25 minutes to cross the border in to Cumbria and we arrive at Harriet’s house in Brampton in time for coffee. We explore their enormous garden and impressive vegetable patch. Simon has raised bed envy! In the afternoon we venture out in full waterproofs pleased that we are now using everything that we brought. We walk in the Northern Pennines and see deer and grouse and not another living soul. It is pretty wet and there are sadly no views today. Back for tea and a hot bath. What a treat! Homemade damson gin with Prosecco is a delicious but probably dangerous start to the evening and we enjoy catching up with Ant and Harriet over Salmon and home grown salads and strawberries. A comfortable night in a bed as Ludwig sleeps outside.  No photos today. 

 Grey missly fog when we wake but the forecast is auspicious. We set off along roads to the Sill information centre and then more roads to Vindolanda Roman fort. We haven’t pre-booked so can’t get in but get a general idea from the low stone ruins visible from the road. We later meet our neighbour at the campsite who is working there as a volunteer archaeologist.  Finally as the sun come out we reach Hadrian’s Wall and walk westwards. It’s built on an outcrop of the Whin Sill, hard igneous  rock that we saw at Dunstanburgh Castle and Hadrian  took advantage of its high rocky cliff lines to build his 15 foot 73 mile long wall. Covered in whitewash on the steep North side it formed a strategic and symbolic barrier between cultured and civilised Roman Britannia and Caledonia. Apparently that idea features in Game of Thrones.   We pass several competitors in an event. Some are barely walking and seem in a state of catatonic tiredness. It turns out they are competing...

 We are both briefly woken by yellow light pouring in to the roof top and we enjoy the sunrise over Lindisfarne. A bit more sleep before breakfast and packing up. We refuel with diesel and supplies at Morrison’s before a swift nip around half of the Elizabethan ramparts of Berwick upon Tweed. We hadn’t realised Lowry was so influenced by the town and enjoyed views over the rooftops to the mouth of the Tweed and Bamburgh Castle beyond. Then back towards Newcastle where we are made very welcome by Teresa and Simon in their lovely house and garden in Lowfell. After a delicious  lunch and a glass of Rosé (not on an empty stomach!) we set off for Hadrian’s Wall. After about 30 minutes a warning light comes about tyre pressure and we discover a nail in a rather flat tyre! Amazing fortune finds us close to Hexham and a KwikFit and we are soon mended and back on the road! Our campsite is lovely: very rural with rabbits eating clover from the grass and we have a great view. Tomato and ...

 Chilly night upstairs and we need the blanket. Our neighbour has been up all night photographing noctilucent (ice) clouds. The longest day is apparently the best time to see them at this latitude.  We leave him to sleep and head off dressed for walking but on bikes. Over the causeway with thrift aplenty on either side and samphire. We visit the outskirts of the Priory ( should have pre booked) but can see most of what there is to see and then the castle (ditto)..  We start the walk around the island and pause at a sandy beach for sunbathing and reading and lunch. Then continue onwards. Lots of viper bugloss and orchids among the dunes. Female eider ducks bob around with their young near the shore. Coffee and Lindisfarne gin purchased we head back on the bikes and stop at The Stoop to look for the Lindisfarne orchid  no luck! We do see the Marsh Heliborene though  which is apparently more beautiful.  Back to base camp for tea, shower, rosé, crisps and m...

 We wake to the sound of light rain on the roof but it doesn’t come to much and we are able to pack up pretty much in the dry. It’s a bit cloudy and overcast as we head off to Bamburgh stopping for a few provisions on the way. We park beneath the imposing castle and head up the hill to the Grace Darling museum. A charming (and free!) museum with memorabilia and artefacts commemorating the story of Grace Darling who was made a reluctant Victorian heroine after she and her father rescued some shipwrecked survivors from the rocks off the Farne Islands. We decide to admire the Castle from the outside and then start walking along the beach to Seahouses. Again it is very high tide and it is hard going in the soft sand. It’s still a bit chilly when we arrive so we decide to have our fish and chips inside! The best in the UK of course! Battered with great chips and served with a slice of Mother’s Pride white bread, butter and a pot of tea. Bliss! Tummies full we head back but now the skies...

  After breakfast I pedal off to Embleton for provisions and then we hit the track though the woods from the campsite. We head towards Dunstanburgh castle and then follow the coast road to Craster. The sun is making an appearance and the wind has dropped so it’s really warm. We go to the smokery and buy Craster kipper fillets, dressed crab and crab sandwich for lunch later.   We head inland and follow signs to Howick Hall and arrive for Earl Grey tea (C also has scones with clotted cream and jam). It’s the home of Earl Grey tea - specially blended for the 2nd Earl Grey to deal with the local spring water which tasted of the lime in it. The Greys marketed the newly invented tea through Twinings but failed to register it as a trade mark so have never received any royalties.  The gardens are pleasantly unkempt- no manicured lawns, instead it’s all left to grow wild. There are 64 acres of arboretum to wander through. Which we do, following the long path all the way to the one...

  We are not hopeful as we wait by the bus stop outside the campsite for the 9.41 bus to Bamburgh. However amazingly it does arrive almost on the dot and we have a comfortable albeit chilly (open windows for ventilation) ride north along the coast - we are virtually the only passengers. We start walking below the impressive turrets of Bamburgh Castle where there is a fiercely competitive game of croquet on the lawn. On to the vast expanse of sand which is quite crowded with  Saturday morning dog walkers as it is high tide. Today the wind is from the south so it is a little hard going at times. We see a flock of Eider Duck resting on the seaweed covered rocks. 3 miles of beach later we arrive in Seahouses which is a “lively, honky tonk” seaside resort according to Michael’s Mum. There are fish and chip shops everywhere! We opt for a coffee this time before heading on towards Beadnell. One stretch involves a long walk through a static caravan park which Simon finds nearly as int...