Thursday 24 June. Hadrian’s Wall
Grey missly fog when we wake but the forecast is auspicious. We set off along roads to the Sill information centre and then more roads to Vindolanda Roman fort. We haven’t pre-booked so can’t get in but get a general idea from the low stone ruins visible from the road. We later meet our neighbour at the campsite who is working there as a volunteer archaeologist.
Finally as the sun come out we reach Hadrian’s Wall and walk westwards. It’s built on an outcrop of the Whin Sill, hard igneous rock that we saw at Dunstanburgh Castle and Hadrian took advantage of its high rocky cliff lines to build his 15 foot 73 mile long wall. Covered in whitewash on the steep North side it formed a strategic and symbolic barrier between cultured and civilised Roman Britannia and Caledonia. Apparently that idea features in Game of Thrones.
We pass several competitors in an event. Some are barely walking and seem in a state of catatonic tiredness. It turns out they are competing in the Montane Spine race. 260 miles in 6 days along the Pennines I’m wearing a Montane walking top. But the similarity ends there.
After about 6 hours walking we get to the Milecastle Inn for a very welcome pint of Sunny Days ale before the final trudge back to our camp site. No queue for showers. It starts to rain just as we get back to Ludwig. I’m planning mushroom risotto for supper.





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